Russian River Supplication

Located in the heart of Sonoma County, Russian River Brewing Company shares much in common with the wineries that make the region famous. It was once owned by Korbel Champagne Cellars, and brewmaster/owner Vinnie Cilurzo comes from a wine-industry family. Cilurzo ages beer in old wine barrels, but he does so for a reason that makes most vintners cringe.

Unlike winemakers who seek to extract a certain flavor from the wood, Cilurzo and other adventurous-minded brewers want to get the bacteria that live inside a used barrel to 'infect' and sour their beer. This requires many months (sometimes years) of aging and blending of different strains to produce. The idea of an ale soured by wild yeasts and bacteria with names like Pediococcus may not sound appealing, but as Russian River's beers prove, the results can be delicious.

Russian River releases its barrel-aged beers on a rotating basis, and while they are usually fairly expensive, they are almost always worth the price. Recently, a shipment of Supplication--their interpretation of a Flemish sour red ale, aged in pinot noir barrels with cherries--made its way to Oregon. Since Supplication relies on uncontrollable, wild yeast for its flavor, no two batches are ever exactly alike. The current vintage is outstanding.

Supplication is a dark amber beer, with little foam and a sharp, sour cherry aroma. The sour flavor can be a bit of a sucker-punch the first time you sip. But as you become accustomed to it, the beer becomes reveals greater depth and complexity: a nice interplay between some brown sugar sweetness is there up front, and there's a unmistakable hint of blueberry, even though none were used in the beer. The cherries shine through at the end, and if you can take time between sips, the freshness of the fruit becomes clear. It's the same aftertaste as a slice of cherry pie in summer.

Not all beer-curious types will warm up to sour beers on first taste, but it is hard to deny Supplication's layers of depth or the artistry that went into its creation. For the passionate Russian River has a nice explanation of the barrel-aging and souring process they use for their beers on their website.