De Ranke XX Bitter

Brouwerij de Ranke is a small, artisanal brewery in Wevelgem, Belgium, just a few miles north of the French border city of Lille. Their beers are known for having an agressive hop character and are in high demand around the world.

They claim that their XX Bitter is the hoppiest beer in Belgium, and, while this may not be the case, it certainly lives up to its name. Some brewers and beer writers categorize XX Bitter as a "Belgian IPA," but it is sui generis. Where other Belgian IPAs use citrusy, piney American hops, XX Bitter uses exclusively European hops, which impart a pleasant spiciness to the aroma and flavor. It is the leading example of a small, though distinct style that one beer writer calles the "hoppy Belgian blond" and what many Brussels restobars list as simply a "blonde amere." I think of it as a Belgian bitter.

XX Bitter is a light golden beer that smells of fresh grass and pepper. An initial hint of malt sweetness quickly transitions into a hop explosion: there is more grass and spice, followed by a swelling, long-lasting bitterness. The bitterness and dryness of the beer build exponentially with each sip, and it takes a full glass for the beer's power to reveal itself. It is clean, with a smooth finish and high carbonation, which make it very refreshing.

This beer is available in 750 ml bottles at many of the better bottle shops in Portland, including Saraveza, The Beer Mongers, and Belmont Station. It is widely imported throughout the rest of the US as well. Brouwerij De Ranke also produces an excellent, well distributed Belgian dark ale called Noir de Dottignies.